18 四月, 2009

Regimental Taratan

Tartan Kiltby Colin W. Hutcheson


The survival of tartan in the 18th century was due in great part to its adoption by the newly raised Highland Regiments of the British Army - an adoption which paved the way for today's unique clan tartans. Here past Tartans Authority Governor, Colin燞utcheson lists British Empire and Commonwealth Tartans by Regiment and then discusses many of them in more detail.

By Regiment

Argyll & Sutherland Highlanders* .......Black Watch/Government then Campbell of Cawdor

Argyll Fencibles...........................................................................Campbell of Cawdor

Argyll Highlanders (Old 74th) ....................................................Lamont

Argyllshire Highlanders, 91st....................................................Black Watch

Atholl Highlanders......................................................................Murray of Atholl

Auckland Highland Rifle Volunteers (NZ) ..............................Black Watch

Baluch Regiment, Pakistan.........................................................Baluch Regt Tartan

Black Watch of Canada牋牋..........................................................Black Watch

Black Watch Pipers牋牋.................................................................Royal Stewart

Black Watch(The Royal Highland Regt)* ..............................Black Watch

Bombay Volunteer Rifles ( India)牋............................................Stewart Hunting

Breadalbane Fencibles牋牋............................................................Campbell of Breadalbane

Byron Regiment (Australia)牋 ....................................................Sutherland

Calcutta Scottish (India)牋 .........................................................Stewart Hunting

Cameron Highlanders 79th of Foot牋.........................................Cameron of Erracht

Cameronians (Scottish Rifles)*牋 ..............................................Douglas

Canterbury Scottish Rifle Volunteers (NZ) ...........................Gordon

Cape Town Highlanders (SA)牋 ................................................Gordon

Duke of Albany's Own Highlanders (72nd) ...........................Prince Charles Edward Stewart

Dunedin Highland Rifle Volunteers (NZ) ...............................Black Watch

First City Regiment (SA)牋 .........................................................Graham of Montrose

Ghurka Rifles (1st)牋牋...................................................................Childers

Glasgow Highlanders (HLI) .....................Black Watch and then MacKenzie as TA Bn until 1967

Glenalmond School Scotland牋 ..................................................Murray of Atholl

Gordon Highlanders*牋牋.............................................................Gordon

Highland Light Infantry* 牋牋......................................................MacKenzie

Highlanders牋牋 .........................................MacKenzie/Cameron Erracht/Gordon

Highlanders of Canada (48th)牋................................................. Davidson/Stewart of Fingask

Kaffrarian Rifles (SA)牋牋..............................................................MacKenzie

Kimberley Scottish ................................................................... MacKenzie

King's Own Scottish Borderers (TA)*牋..........(Pipers) Erskine Red/Green till 1940 then Buccleuch


King's Own Scottish Borderers牋 ..............................................Leslie/Royal Stewart

Liverpool Scottish (TA)牋牋.........................................................Forbes

London Irish Rifles (TA)牋 .........................................................Saffron

London Scottish (TA)*牋牋..........................................................Hodden Grey

Loretto School Scotland牋牋.........................................................Stewart Hunting

Lovat Scouts牋牋.....................................................................Fraser Hunting

Merchiston Castle School Scotland牋.......................................Cameron of Erracht

Natal Mounted Rifles (South Africa) ...........pipe band still wear Douglas

New South Wales Scottish (Aus)牋...........................................Black Watch

New Zealand 1st Armoured Car Regt .................................... .Black Watch

Pretoria Highlanders (SA)牋 .......................................................Stewart Hunting

Prince Alfred's Guard 1874 (SA)牋.............................................Cameron of Erracht

Queen's Own Cameron Highlanders*牋...............................Cameron of Erracht

Queen's Own Highlanders牋 ................................Cameron of Erracht/MacKenzie

Rajput Regiment,(NW India)牋 ..................................................Rajput Tartan

Ross-shire Buffs (78th)牋牋...........................................................MacKenzie

Royal Artillery, 19th Regiment Royal Artillery Highland Gunners.............Robertson Hunting(rank slides)

Royal Auxillary Air Force 602 Sqn. (Glasgow) .........................Douglas Grey

Royal Auxillary Air Force 603 Sqn. (Edinburgh) .........................Douglas Grey

Royal Durban Light Infantry(SA)牋..........................................Black Watch

Royal Highland Fusiliers牋 ........................................................MacKenzie

Royal New South Wales Regiment (Aus) .............................Black Watch

Royal Scots Dragoon Guards (Pipers) .................................... Royal Stewart

Royal Scots (The Royal Regiment)牋.......................................Hunting Stewart

Royal Scots Fusiliers*牋牋..........................................................Erskine Hunting

Royal Scots Fusiliers (Pipers)................................................Erskine red & black

Royal Scots (Pipers)*牋 ............................................................ Royal Stewart

Royal Scots Greys (Pipers)....trews.........................................Dalziel

Royal South Australia Regiment牋 ..........................................MacKenzie

Scots Guards (Pipers)*牋牋..........................................................Royal Stewart

Scottish Horse ...............................................................Fraser Hunting

Seaforth Highlanders*牋牋..........................................................MacKenzie

Shanghai Volunteer Corps (China)牋.......................................Stewart Hunting

South African Scottish牋牋.........................................................Murray of Atholl

Stormont, Dundas & Glengarry Highlanders TA (Can)牋...........MacDonnell of Glengarry

Toronto Scottish (Can)牋牋.........................................................Hodden Grey

Transvaal Scottish (SA) ..........................................................Murray of Atholl

Tyneside Scottish (RE) .........................................................Black Watch

Wanganui Highland Rifles (NZ)牋........................................... Gordon

Wellington Highlanders (NZ)牋 ...............................................Black Watch

Witwatersrand Rifles (SA)牋 ....................................................Douglas


* Illustrations


By Tartan:

Atholl or Murray of Atholl � worn by the Atholl Highlanders, the private army of the Duke of Atholl.
Also worn by:
燭he Transvaal Scottish Regiment in South Africa.(Pipers wear Murray of Tullibardine � the Marquis of Tullibardine is the son of the Duke of Atholl).
燭he Pipe Bands of Trinity College, Glenalmond, Scotland.
4th S.A. Infantry (South African Scottish)
Scottish Horse, Pipers
牋
Black Watch � also known as the Universal or Government tartan. Whilst being worn by the 42nd Black Watch Regiment (The Royal Highland Regiment), since 1739 this tartan has formed the basis upon which many other Regiment's tartans were designed, most notably Gordon (Gordon Highlanders), MacKenzie (Seaforth Highlanders and the Highland Light Infantry), Sutherland (Princess Louise's Argyll and Sutherland Highlanders).
The belief that the Black Watch tartan was based on the Campbell Tartan is disputed by several experts. (The Black Watch Pipers wear the Stewart Royal Tartan).
The "Watches" were a system of policing to prevent cattle lifting and the Black Watch tartan was eminently suitable in this role.

Also worn by
The Royal Scots (The Royal Regiment) until 1901 when they adopted the Hunting Stewart.
The Glasgow Highlanders (HLI).
The Gordon Highlanders (75th & 92nd Foot), wore the Black Watch tartan prior to 1778 after which a yellow line was added.
The 91st Argyllshire Highlanders, raised in 1794.
The Argyll & Sutherland Highlanders (the tartan was referred to as the Sutherland tartan but was the Black Watch in a slightly lighter shade)
Breadalbane Fencibles 1793 wore the Black Watch at first but later added two yellow lines.牋It became called the Campbell of Breadalbane
New South Wales Scottish (Australia)
Royal New South Wales Regiment (Australia)
Dunedin Highland Rifle Volunteers (New Zealand)
Wellington Highlanders (New Zealand)
Auckland Highland Rifle Volunteers (New Zealand)
1st Armoured Car Regiment (New Zealand Scottish)
Royal Durban Light Infantry (South Africa)
Black Watch (The Royal Highland Regiment) of Canada

Baluch Regiment Tartan - Baluch Regiment Pakistan

Buccleuch � Pipers of the King's Own Scottish Borderers TA.
牋
Campbell of Breadalbane � The Breadalbane Fencibles (1793).

Campbell of Cawdor � worn by several Argyll Fencibles and 91st Regt. after 1886..

Cameron of Erracht � Worn by the Queen's Own Cameron Highlanders (79th Cameron Highlanders). When asked if the Regiment would adopt the tartan of the 42nd Black Watch the reply was an emphatic "No" and the Cameron of Erracht tartan in fact, owes its origins to the MacDonald tartan. After the Seaforth and the Cameron Highlanders were amalgamated to form the QOCH, further amalgamation took place with the Gordon Highlanders to form the "Highlanders" in 1994.

Also worn by
The Pipe Band of Merchiston Castle School, Edinburgh, Scotland.
Prince Alfred's Guard 1874 (South Africa)

The amalgamation of the Seaforths and the Cameron Highlanders in 1960 when they became the Queens Own Highlanders caused much heartburn over their tartan but a decision was taken to allow them to wear a MacKenzie kilt and Cameron Trews. Their Bandsmen wore the reverse.

Childers � Named after Rt Hon Hugh C.E.Childers, Secretary of State for War in 1907, it was used by the 1st Ghurka Rifles.

Dalziel - worn as trews by Royal Scots Grey pipers.

Davidson � Worn by the 48th Highlanders of Canada. Today the Pipe Band of the Regiment wears the Stewart of Fingask tartan.

Douglas � Worn by the Cameronians (Scottish Rifles 26th & 90th Foot) . The first Colonel of the Regiment was called Graham which would have been their preferred choice of Tartan but was not sanctioned.
Also worn by燱itwatersrand Rifles, South West Africa and by Natal Mounted Rifles (South Africa).

Erskine (Red/Green) - worn by the Pipers of the Kings Own Scottish Borderers TA pre 1940, who thereafter wore the Buccleuch Tartan. Worn by Royal Scots Fusiliers' pipers and then from 1958 worn by the Royal Highland Fusiliers.

Erskine Red/Black - worn by the Royal Scots Fusiliers Pipers.

Erskine Hunting � worn by the Royal Scots Fusiliers (21st Foot) from 1948 onwards (see Erskine Red for pipers). Prior to this they had worn the Government tartan with the addition of a bluish line.

Forbes � worn by the Liverpool Scottish Territorials.

Fraser Hunting 枲Lovat Scouts

Gordon � Worn by the Gordon Highlanders raised by the Duke of Gordon in 1793
and having added a yellow line to the Black Watch Tartan, the Gordon family having had no family tartan of their own.
Also worn by
Canterbury Scottish Rifle Volunteers 1900 (New Zealand).
Wanganui Highland Rifles(Volunteers), (New Zealand).
Cape Town Highlanders (South Africa)

Government � see under Black Watch

Graham of Montrose � First City Regiment, South Africa.

Lamont � The Lamont tartan, being the Black Watch with a white line added, was worn from 1846 by the 74th Highlanders, later 2nd Battalion Highland Light Infantry.

Leslie � Trews worn by the King's Own Scottish Borderers.

London Regiment � This tartan was designed in 2000 by Johnstons of Elgin on the request of the London Regiment which, in 1993 formed a combined force of The London Scottish TA, The Queen's Regiment, The City of London Fusiliers, and The London Irish.

MacDonnell of Glengarry � Glengarry Highlanders TA, Canada

MacKenzie � worn by the Highland Light Infantry 71st & 74th Foot (also see Lamont) and the Seaforth Highlanders 72nd & 78th Foot,
Also worn by
South Australian Scottish Regiment (Australia)
Royal South Australia Regiment (Australia)
Kaffrarian Rifles (South Africa)
Royal Highland Fusiliers (trews) , a new Regiment in 1958.
Kimberley Scottish.

MacKintosh - Fife & Forfar Yoemanry.

Murray of Atholl � Scottish Horse, Pipers.

Rajput � The Rajput Regiment Tartan

Robertson Hunting - 19th Regiment Royal Artillery Highland Gunners (Rank slides)

Stewart of Fingask � worn by the Pipers of the 48th Highlanders, Canada

Stewart Hunting � Trews worn by the Royal Scots (The Royal Regiment) First of Foot.
Also worn by
The Pretoria Highlanders (South Africa)
Calcutta Scottish (India)
Bombay Volunteer Rifles (India)
Shanghai Volunteer Corps (China)
Loretto School, Cadet Force, Edinburgh, Scotland

Prince Charles Edward Stuart � worn by the 72nd Regiment Seaforths (The Duke of Albany's Own Highlanders) as trews(1809) until almalgamation with the 78th (Ross-shire Buffs) in 1881 after which they both wore MacKenzie.
Also worn by
Royal Company of Archers in early 18th Century.
.
Stewart, Royal 枲 Kilts were worn by the Pipers of several Regiments after King George V decreed that, as the Sovereign's personal tartan, it could be used.
Pipers of The Royal Scots (The Royal Regiment)
Pipers of the King's Own Scottish Borderer's
Pipers of the Black Watch Regiment
Pipers of the Scots Guards
Pipers of the Royal Scots Dragoon Guards
- 4 -
Sutherland � worn by Princess Louise's Argyll & Sutherland Highlanders.
Also worn by Byron Regiment (Australia)

Universal � see under Black Watch.


Military Kilts not in Tartan

Hodden Grey � The London Scottish Regiment TA, founded in 1859, wear plain kilts of Hodden Grey, the colour of their founder Lord Elcho's hunting coat. It was reputed, at the time of the Boer War, when the Regiment won their first Battle Honours, to be the start of the use of camouflage in the British Army.

Also worn by
The Toronto Scottish, Canada

Saffron - London Irish Pipers.

Royal Company of Archers, the Queen's Bodyguard for Scotland

Black Watch Tartan � It is worthy of note that the Royal Company wore the Prince Charles Edward Stewart tartan in the early-mid 18th Century and the Black Watch Tartan , c 1789.

Bibliography:
燭he Clans & Septs and Regiments of the Scottish Highlands, by Frank Adam
燭he Origins and Development of Military Tartans, by James D Scarlett
燭he 1819 Key Pattern Book, one hundred original tartans, Peter MacDonald
營ndex of Military Tartans, www.Regiments.org
燫egister and Index of Scottish Regiments, www.Regiments.org
燦otes on Scottish Military Tartans by William A.Thorburn
燦otes on the Tartan of the Highland Light Infantry, by A.N.E.Browne
燬ummary of the Commonwealth Scottish Regiments by Kim Stacy.


Scottish Tartans Authority
Tartan Kilt

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Tartan

Tartan

Three examples of Scottish tartan.

Tartan is a pattern consisting of criss-crossed horizontal and vertical bands in multiple colours. Tartans originated in woven cloth, now used in many other materials. Tartan is particularly associated with Scotland. Scottish kilts almost always have tartan patterns. (Tartan is also known as plaid in North America, but in Scotland, a plaid is a tartan cloth slung over the shoulder or a blanket.)

Tartan is made with alternating bands of coloured (pre-dyed) threads woven as both warp and weft at right angles to each other. The weft is woven in a simple twill, two over - two under the warp, advancing one thread each pass. This forms visible diagonal lines where different colours cross, which give the appearance of new colours blended from the original ones. The resulting blocks of colour repeat vertically and horizontally in a distinctive pattern of squares and lines known as a sett.

Until the middle of the nineteenth century, the highland tartans were associated with regions or districts, rather than by any specific clan. This was due to the fact that tartan designs were produced by local weavers for local tastes and would tend to make use of the natural dyes available in that area. The patterns were simply different regional checked-cloth patterns, whereof one chose the tartans most to one's liking - in the same way as people nowadays choose what colours and patterns they prefer in their clothing. Thus, it was not until the mid 1800s that specific tartans became associated with Scottish clans or Scottish families, or simply institutions who are (or wish to be seen as) associated in some way with a Scottish heritage.[1]

It is generally stated that the most popular tartans today are the Black Watch (also known as Campbell, Universal, Government) and Royal Stewart.[2] Today tartan is no longer limited to textiles but is used on non-woven mediums, such as paper, plastics, packaging, and wall coverings.[3]

  • Etymology and terminology
Soldiers from a Highland Regiment circa 1744. The private is wearing a belted plaid.

The English word tartan is derived from the French tiretain. This French word is likely derived from the verb tirer in reference to woven cloth (as opposed to knitted cloth).[note 1] Today tartan usually refers to coloured patterns, though originally a tartan did not have to be made up of any pattern at all. As late as the 1830s tartan was sometimes described as "plain coloured ... without pattern".[5] Patterned cloth from the Gaelic speaking Scottish Highlands was called breacan, meaning many colours. Over time the meanings of tartan and breacan were combined to describe certain type of pattern on a certain type of cloth. Today tartan is generally used to describe a pattern, and it is not limited to only textiles.[5] Today the term plaid is commonly used to describe what is actually tartan.[6] Both terms however, originally had separate meanings. The word plaid is derived from the Scottish Gaelic plaide, meaning "blanket".[7] Originally plaid was first used to describe the rectangular, blanket-like garment, sometimes made up of tartan, that preceded the modern kilt (see: belted plaid). In time, plaid was used to describe blankets themselves.[6] The pattern of a tartan is called a sett. The sett is made up of a series of woven threads which cross at right angles.[5]

Construction

Diagram A, the warp
Diagram B, the weft.
Diagram C, the tartan. The combining of the warp and weft.

Each thread in the warp crosses each thread in the weft at right angles. When a thread in the warp crosses a thread in the weft of the same colour, it produces a solid colour on the tartan. If a thread crosses another of a different colour, it produces a mixture of the two colours in equal proportion. Thus, a sett of two base colours produces one mixture, for a total of three different colours. The total number of colours, including mixtures, increases out of proportion to the number of base colours. So, a sett of six base colours produces fifteen mixtures, for a total of twenty-two different colours. This means that the more stripes and colours used, the more blurred and subdued the tartan's pattern becomes.[5][8]

The sequence of threads, known as the sett, starts at an edge and either repeats or reverses on what are called pivot points. In diagram A, the sett reverses at the first pivot, then repeats, then reverses at the next pivot, and will carry on in this manner horizontally. In diagram B, the sett reverses and repeats in the same way as the warp, and also carries on in the same manner vertically. The diagrams left illustrate the construction of a "symmetrical" tartan. However, on an "asymmetrical" tartan, the sett does not reverse at the pivots, it just repeats at the pivots. Also, some tartans (very few) do not have the exact same sett for the warp and weft. This means the warp and weft will have alternate thread counts.

Tartan is recorded by counting the threads of each colour that appear in the sett.[note 2] The thread count not only describes the width of the stripes on a sett, but also the colours used. For example, the thread count "K4 R24 K24 Y4" corresponds to 4 black threads, 24 red threads, 24 black threads, 4 yellow threads.[9] The first and last threads of the thread count are the pivot points.[3] Though thread counts are indeed quite specific, they can to be modified in certain circumstances, depending on the desired size of the tartan. For example, the sett of a tartan (about 6 inches) may be too large to fit upon the face of a neck tie. In this case the thread count has to be reduced in proportion (about 3 inches).[9]

Colour: shades and meaning

The shades of colour in tartan can be altered to produce variations of the same tartan. The resulting variations are termed: modern, ancient, and muted. These terms refer to colour only. Modern represents a tartan that is coloured using chemical dye, as opposed to natural dye. In the mid-19th century natural dyes began to be replaced by chemical dyes which were easier to use and were more economic for the booming tartan industry. Chemical dyes tended to produce a very strong, dark colour compared to the natural dyes. In modern colours, setts made up of blue, black and green tend be obscured. Ancient refers to a lighter shade of tartan. This shade is supposed to represent the colours that would be obtained by using natural dyes. Muted refers to tartan which is shade between modern and ancient. This type of tartan is very modern, dating only from the early 1970s. This shade is said to be the closest match to the shades attained by natural dyes used before the mid-19th century.[10]

The idea that the various colours used in tartan have a specific meaning is purely a modern one. One such myth is that red tartans were "battle tartans", designed so they would not show blood. Many recently created tartans, such as Canadian provincial and territorial tartans and American state tartans, are designed with certain symbolic meaning for the colours used. For example the colour green sometimes symbolises prairies or forests, blue can symbolise lakes and rivers, and the colour yellow is sometimes used to symbolise various crops.[2]

History

The earliest image of Scottish soldiers wearing tartan, from a woodcut dating from 1631.[11][note 3]

Origins

Today tartan may be mostly associated with Scotland, however the earliest evidence of tartan is found far afield from the British Isles. According to the textile historian E. J. W. Barber, the Hallstatt culture, which flourished between 100 BC to 400 BC, produced tartan-like textiles, some of which were recently discovered, remarkably preserved in Salzburg, Austria.[4] Also, textile analysis of fabric from Indo-European Tocharian graves in Western China has shown it to be similar to the Iron Age Hallstatt culture of central Europe.[12] Tartan-like leggings were found on the "Cherchen Man", a 3,000 year-old mummy, found in the Taklamakan Desert in western China (see Tarim mummies).[13] Similar finds have been found in central Europe and Scandinavia.[5] The earliest documented tartan in Britain, known as the Falkirk tartan, dates from the 3rd century AD. It was uncovered at Falkirk in Stirlingshire, Scotland, about 400 metres north-west of the Antonine Wall. The fragment was stuffed into the mouth of the earthenware pot containing almost 2,000 Roman coins. The Falkirk tartan is simple check design, of natural light and dark wool. Early forms of tartan such as this are thought to have been invented in pre-Roman times, and would have been popular among the inhabitants of the northern Roman provinces.[14][15]

John Campbell of the Bank, 1749. The present official Clan Campbell tartans are green.

Tartan, as we know it today, is not thought to have existed in Scotland before the 16th century. By the late 16th century there are numerous references to striped or checkered plaids. It isn't until the late 17th or early 18th century that any kind uniformity in tartan is thought to have occurred.[16] Martin Martin, in his A Description of the Western Islands of Scotland published in 1703, wrote that Scottish tartans could be used to distinguish the inhabitants of different regions. He expressly wrote that the inhabitants of various islands and the mainland of the highlands were not all dressed alike, but that the setts and colours of the various tartans varied from isle to isle.[note 4] As he does not mention the use of a special pattern by each family, it would appear that such a distinction is a modern one, and taken from the ancient custom of a tartan for each district, the family or clan in each district originally the most numerous in each part, eventually adopting as their distinctive clan tartan, the tartan of such district.

For many centuries, the patterns were loosely associated with the weavers of a particular area, though it was common for highlanders to wear a number of different tartans at the same time. A 1587 charter granted to Hector Maclean of Duart requires feu duty on land paid as 60 ells of cloth of white, black and green colours. A witness of the 1689 Battle of Killiecrankie describes "McDonnell's men in their triple stripes". From 1725 the government force of the Highland Independent Companies introduced a standardised tartan chosen to avoid association with any particular clan, and this was formalised when they became the Black Watch regiment in 1739.

The world's first colour photograph, made by the Scottish scientist James Clerk Maxwell in 1861, was of a tartan ribbon.[18]

The most effective fighters for Jacobitism were the supporting Scottish clans, leading to an association of tartans with the Jacobite cause. Efforts to pacify the Highlands led to the 1746 Dress Act banning tartans with exemptions for the military and the gentry. Soon after the Act was repealed in 1782 Highland Societies of landowners were promoting "the general use of the ancient Highland dress". William Wilson & Sons of Bannockburn became the foremost weaving manufacturer around 1770 as suppliers of tartan to the military. Wilson corresponded with his agents in the highlands to get information and samples of cloth from the clan districts to enable him to reproduce "perfectly genuine patterns" and recorded over 200 setts by 1822, many of which were tentatively named. The Cockburn Collection of named samples made by Wilsons was put together between 1810 and 1820 and is now in the Mitchell Library in Glasgow. At this time many setts were simply numbered, or given fanciful names such as the "Robin Hood" tartan.

By the 19th century the Highland romantic revival inspired by James Macpherson's Ossian poems and the writings of Walter Scott led to wider interest, with clubs like the Celtic Society of Edinburgh welcoming Lowlanders. The pageantry invented for the 1822 visit of King George IV to Scotland brought a sudden demand for tartan cloth and made it the national dress of the whole of Scotland rather than just the highlands and islands, with the invention of many new clan-specific tartans to suit.

Royal patronage and the tartan craze

Wilkie's idealised depiction of George IV, in full Highland dress, during the visit to Scotland in 1822.[note 5]
Further information: Visit of King George IV to Scotland

The popularity of tartan was greatly increased by the royal visit of George IV to Edinburgh in 1822. George IV was the first reigning monarch to visit Scotland in 171 years.[20] The festivities surrounding the event were originated by Sir Walter Scott who founded the Celtic Society of Edinburgh in 1820. Scott and Celtic Society members urged Scots to attend festivities "all plaided and plumed in their tartan array".[21] One contemporary writer sarcastically described the pomp that surrounded the celebrations as "Sir Walter's Celtified Pagentry".[21][22]

Following the Royal visit several books which documented tartans added to the craze. James Logan's romanticised work The Scottish Gael, published in 1831, was one such publication which led the Scottish tartan industry to invent clan tartans.[23] The first publication showing plates of clan tartans was the Vestiarium Scoticum published in 1842.[24] The Vestiarium was the work of two brothers: John Sobieski and Charles Allen Hay. The brothers, who called themselves John Sobieski Stolberg Stuart and Charles Edward Stuart, first appeared in Scotland in 1822. The two claimed to be grandsons of Prince Charles Edward Stuart and his wife Princess Louise of Stolberg, and consequence later became known as the "Sobieski Stuarts". The Sobieski Stuarts claimed that the Vestiarium was based upon a copy of an ancient manuscript on clan tartans—a manuscript which they never managed to produce.[25] The Vestiarium was followed by equally dubious The Costume of the Clans, two years later.[23] The romantic enthusiasm that that Logan and the Sobieski Stuarts generated with their publications led the way other tartan books in the 19th century.[21][24]

Just twenty years after her uncle's visit to Scotland, Queen Victoria and her husband Prince Albert of Saxe-Coburg and Gotha made their first trip to the Scottish Highlands. The queen and prince bought Balmoral Castle in 1848 and hired a local architect to re-model the estate in "Scots Baronial" style. Prince Albert personally took care of the interior design, where he made great use of tartan. He utilised the red Royal Stewart and the green Hunting Stewart tartans for carpets, while using the Dress Stewart for curtains and upholstery. The queen designed the Victoria, and the prince was the designer of the Balmoral tartan which still is used today as a royal tartan. Victoria and Albert spent a considerable amount of time at their estate, and in doing so hosted many "Highland" activities. Victoria was attended by pipers and her children were attired in Highland dress. Prince Albert himself loved watching the Highland games.[26][note 6] Ironically as the craze swept over Scotland, the Highland population suffered grievously from the Highland Clearances. While thousands of Gaelic speaking Scots from the Highlands and Isles were evicted by landlords (in many cases the very men who would have been their own clan chiefs) to make room for sheep.[21]

Clan tartans

David Morier's An incident in the rebellion of 1745. The eight featured highlanders in the painting wear over twenty different tartans.[28]
"Ye principal clovris of ye clanne Stewart tartan" which appeared in the Vestiarium Scoticum of 1842. The Vestiarium is the source of many of today's clan tartans.

It is generally regarded that "clan tartans" date no earlier than the beginning of the 19th century. It is maintained by many that clan tartans were not in use at the time of the Battle of Culloden in 1746. The method of identifying friend from foe was not through tartans but by the colour of ribbon worn upon the bonnet.[note 7][note 8] David Morier's well-known painting of the Highland charge at the battle shows the clansman wearing various tartans. The setts painted all differ from one another and very few of the those painted show any resemblance to today's clan tartans.[31] Contemporary portraits show that although tartan is of an early date, the pattern worn depended not on the wearer's clan, but upon his or her location, or personal taste. The idea of groups of men wearing the same tartan is thought to originate from the military units in the 18th century. Evidence suggests that in 1725 the Independant Highland Companies may have worn a uniform tartan.[31]

The naming and registration of official clan tartans began on April 8, 1815, when the Highland Society of London (founded 1778) resolved that all the clan chiefs each "be respectfully solicited to furnish the Society with as Much of the Tartan of his Lordship's Clan as will serve to Show the Pattern and to Authenticate the Same by Attaching Thereunto a Card bearing the Impression of his Lordship's Arms." Many had no idea of what their tartan might be, but were keen to comply and to provide authentic signed and sealed samples. Alexander Macdonald, 2nd Baron Macdonald of Sleat was so far removed from his Highland heritage that he wrote to the Society: "Being really ignorant of what is exactly The Macdonald Tartan, I request you will have the goodness to exert every Means in your power to Obtain a perfectly genuine Pattern, Such as Will Warrant me in Authenticating it with my Arms."

Today tartan and "clan tartan" is an important part of a Scottish clan. Almost all Scottish clans have several tartans attributed to their name. Several clans have "official" tartans. Although it is possible for anyone to create a tartan and name it any name they wish, the only person with the authority to make a clan's tartan "official" is the chief.[note 9] In some cases, following such recognition from the clan chief, the clan tartan is recorded and registered by the Lord Lyon King of Arms. Once approved by the Lord Lyon, after recommendation by the Advisory Committee on Tartan, the clan tartan is then recorded in the Lyon Court Books.[31] In at least one instance a clan tartan appears in the heraldry of a clan chief and is considered by the Lord Lyon as the "proper" tartan of the clan.[note 10]

Other tartans

The Black Watch tartan, also known as the "Government sett", or the Campbell tartan. The tartan was used, and is in current use, by several military units throughout the Commonwealth.[34]
Northumbrian tartan, one of the earliest known tartans.

In addition to the clan tartans, there are many tartans registered for families, districts, institutions and even specific commemorative "memorials" for events or persons. Further, tradition reserves some patterns for use by Scottish Highland military units of the United Kingdom and Commonwealth countries.

Those units associated with the British Royal Family use the Royal Stewart Tartan regardless of whether they are affiliated by blood to the Stewart clan. This is because of the Royal Family's Stewart ancestry through James VI of Scotland. The Royal family themselves use the Balmoral tartan. However tartan is pretty inclusive. There are tartans for military forces like the Royal Air Force & Royal Canadian Air Force, commercial companies, special interest groups like Amnesty International, religious movements (including Hare Krishna), cities, football clubs (including non-UK football clubs like Hammarby IF[1][2]), dancing and whisky-drinking societies, non-British Celtic groups such as French Bretons and Spanish Galicians, commemorations and regions of the world where people of the Scottish Diaspora live. Members of various non-Scottish ethnic groups living in Scotland have developed their own tartans, including Scotland's Jewish, Sikh and Chinese communities.[35]

In Canada all provinces have an official tartan.

British Airways used a tartan design as part of its ethnic tailfin rebranding. This design, Benyhone or "Mountain of the birds," was one of the most widely used designs, being applied to 27 aircraft of the BA fleet.

The Clergy are the only profession represented by a separate tartan. The legend that goes along with this is that they needed a separate tartan to wear instead of their own family's so that they would not be attacked by members of their new congregations who were feuding with their clan.[citation needed]

In the Celtic regions of Cornwall, Wales, Brittany and Galicia tartans and kilts have been adopted as part of the 19th and 20th century Celtic revival. In Ireland, tartans date back to the 1600s and every county in Ireland has its own tartan design as well as family clans having their own particular tartan.

Tartan is sometimes differentiated from another with the same name by the label dress or hunting. Dress tartans are based on the earasaid tartans worn by Highland women in the 17th and 18th centuries.[note 11] Dress tartans tend to be made by replacing a prominent colour with the colour white. They are commonly used today in Highland dancing. Hunting tartans are also a Victorian conception.[37][note 12] These tartans tend to be made up of subdued colours, such as dark blues and greens. Despite the name, hunting tartans have very little to do with actual hunting.[6] Mourning tartans, though quite rare, are associated with death and funerals. They are usually designed using combinations of black and white.[39]

Clever Victorian entrepreneurs not only created new tartans, but new tartan objects called tartanware. Tartan was incorporated into an assortment of common household objects such as snuffboxes, jewellery cases, tableware, sewing accessories, and desk items. Tourists visiting the Scottish Highlands came home with it, and Scottish-based businesses sent tartanware out as gifts to customers. Some of the more popular tartans were the Stewart, McDonald, McGregor, McDuff, MacBeth and Prince Charlie.[40] Today tartanware is widely collected in England and Scotland.[41]

Tartan in fashion

In the Victorian and Edwardian eras, tartan-clad garments featured in fashion catalogues. By then, tartan had shifted from being mainly a component of men's clothing to become an important part of women's fashion. In consequence of its association with the British aristocracy and military, tartan developed an air of dignity and exclusivity. Because of this, tartan has made reappearances in the world of fashion several times. For instance, tartan made a resurgence in its use in Punk fashion. In the late 1970s punk music was a way for youth in the British Isles to voice their discontent with the ruling class. The unorthodox use of tartan, which had long been associated with authority and gentility, was then seen as the expression of discontent against modern society. In this way tartan, worn unconventionally, became an anti-establishment symbol.[42][43]

Tartan registration

Coat of arms of the now defunct Scottish Tartans Society.

It has been estimated that there are about 7,000 different tartans, and about 150 new designs being created every year.[44] Up until recently there had been no central, or "official" tartan registry. In the absence of an official register, several un-authoritative groups located in Scotland, Canada and the USA documented and recorded tartan.[45] In the 1960s, a Scottish society called the Scottish Tartans Society was created to record and preserve all known tartan designs.[46] The society's register, the Register of All Publicly Known Tartans, contains about 2,700 different designs of tartan.[47] The society however ran into financial troubles in about the year 2000, and is now defunct.[48] Former members of the society then formed two new Scottish-based organisations—the Scottish Tartans Authority (STA) and the Scottish Tartans World Register (STWR). Both of these societies based their database upon the Register of All Publicly Known Tartans. The STA's database consists of about 3,500 tartans, while the STWR's is made up of about 3,000 different designs.[47] Both organisations are registered Scottish charities and recorded new tartans (for a fee) on request.[49][50]

The Scottish Register of Tartans is Scotland's official register of tartan. The Register is maintained and administrated by the National Archives of Scotland based in Edinburgh.[51] The aim of the Register is to provide a definitive and accessible resource to promote and preserve tartan. It also aims to be the definitive source for the registration of new tartans. The register itself is made up of the existing registers of the STA and the STWR and new registrations from February 5, 2009, and on. On the Registers's website users can register new tartans, search for and request the threadcounts of existing tartans and receive notifications of newly registered tartans.[52][53]

The 'right' or 'entitlement' to tartan

Many people only own tartan to which they feel they are associated with, be it through a clan, family, surname or military unit. Others choose their tartan only out of personal taste. Since the Victorian era 'authorities' on tartan have claimed that there is an etiquette to wearing tartan, specifically tartan attributed to clans or families. This concept of the 'entitlement' to certain tartans has led to the term of universal tartan, or free tartan, which describes tartan which, in the opinion of some, can be worn by anyone. Traditional examples of such are the Black Watch (also known as Government, Universal, and Campbell), Caledonian, Hunting Stewart, and Jacobite tartans.[54] In the same line of opinion, some tartan attributed to the British Royal Family are claimed by some to be 'off limits' to non-royals.[55] Even so, there are no rules on who can, or cannot, wear a particular tartan. Note that some modern tartans are patented and protected by trademark, and cannot be sold or appropriated.[2] An example of one such tartan is the Burberry Check.[note 13]

Many books on Scottish clans list such rules and guidelines.[2] One such opinion is that people not bearing a clan surname, or surname claimed as a sept of a clan, should not wear the tartan of their mother's clan.[58] This opinion is enforced by the fact that in the Scottish clan system, the Lord Lyon states that membership to a clan technically passes through the surname. This means that children who bear their father's surname belong to the father's clan (if any), and that children who bear their mother's surname (her maiden name) belong to their mother's clan (if any).[59] Also, the Lord Lyon states that a clan tartan should only be worn by those who profess allegiance to that clan's chief.[60] Some clan societies even claim that certain tartans are the personal property of a chief or chieftain, and in some cases they allow their clansfolk 'permission' to wear a tartan.[note 14] According to the Scottish Tartans Authority—which is closely associated with the Scottish tartan industry—the Balmoral tartan should not be worn by anyone who is not part of the British Royal Family. Even so, some weavers outside of the United Kingdom ignore the "longstanding convention" of the British Royal Family's 'right' to this tartan. The society also claims that non-royals who wear this tartan are treated with "great disdain" by the Scottish tartan industry.[62][note 15] Generally though, a more liberal attitude is taken by those in the business of selling tartan, stressing that anyone may wear any tartan they like (besides the Balmoral of course). In the end though, there are no rules on who can or can not wear a certain tartan.

See also


Look up tartan in Wiktionary, the free dictionary.

Footnotes

  1. ^ It has also been sugested that tartan may be derived from the cognate in the modern Scottish Gaelic tarsainn,[4] meaning "across".
  2. ^ Early collectors of tartan recorded setts by measuring the width of each stripe in one eighths of an inch.[9]
  3. ^ The Highlanders depicted were sometimes mistakenly described as Irish "Irrelander oder Irren". It is thought that the soldiers depicted were part of Mackay's Regiment which served under Gustavus Adolphus in Stettin (present day Szczecin, Poland). The men are depicted in dress varying from belted plaid, draped plaids and tartan breeches with tartan hose.[11]
  4. ^ Martin Martin wrote: "each each Isle differs from the other in thir fancy of making Plaids, as to the Stripes in Breadth and Colours. this Humour is as different thro the main Land of the Highlands, in so-far that they who have seen these Places are able, at the first view of a Man's Plaid to guess the Place of his Residence..."[17]
  5. ^ Sir David Wilkie's portrait of George IV depicts the king much slimmer than he actually was. Wilkie covered up the fact the king's kilt was too short—sitting well above the knees—and also left out the fact the king wore pink tights to hide his bare legs.[19]
  6. ^ Queen Victoria wrote of her time in Scotland: "Yes; and I feel a sort of reverance in going over these scenes in this most beutaful country, which I am proud to call my own, where there was such devoted loyalty to the family of my ancestors - for Stuart blood is in my veins, and I am now their representative, and the people as devoted and loyal to me as they were that unhappy race".[27]
  7. ^ James Ray who served in the government forces at the Battle of Culloden, wrote in 1752: "In their flight I came up with a pretty young Highlander, who called out to me, Hold your Hand, I'm a Cambell. On which I asked him, Where's your Bonnet ? He reply'd, Somebody have snatched it off my Head. I only mention this to shew how we distinguished our loyal Clans from the Rebels ; they being dress'd and equip'd all in one Way, except the Bonnet ; ours having a red or yellow Cross of Cloath or Ribbon ; theirs a white Cockade".[29]
  8. ^ Kass McGann, citing A Journal of the Expedition of Prince Charles Edward in 1745, by a Highland Officer which states: "We M’Donalds were much preplex’d, in the event of ane ingagement, how to distinguish ourselves from our bretheren and nighbours the M’Donalds of Sky, seeing we were both Highlanders and both wore heather in our bonnets, only our white cockades made some distinction", claims that this further supports the thought that the idea of clan tartans is a late invention.[30]
  9. ^ Although there are many tartans attributed to the Campbells, and many tartans named Campbell, there are only four tartans recognised by the current chief as Clan Campbell tartans: Campbell (aka Black Watch), Campbell of Breadalbane, Campbell of Cawdor, and Campbell of Loudoun.[32]
  10. ^ The crest of the chief of Clan MacLennan is A demi-piper all Proper, garbed in the proper tartan of the Clan Maclennan.[33] Note the highland MacLennans use the same tartan as the lowland Logans. Clan Logan is currently without a chief.
  11. ^ The Scottish Gaelic earasaid refers to a shawl—in this case a tartan shawl—worn by women.[36]
  12. ^ Even so, the 16th century historian, George Buchanan wrote: "They delight in variegated garments, especially striped, and their favorite colours are purple and blue. Their ancestors wore plaids of many different colours and numbers still retain this custom, but the majority, now, in their dress, prefer a dark brown, imitating nearly the leaves of heather; than when lying upon the heath in the day, they may not be discovered by the appearance of their clothes".[38]
  13. ^ In 2003 Burberry demanded members of the tartan industry to stop trading a certain Camel Thompson tartan.[56] Burberry claimed this tartan, which dates from 1906, was so similar to their Burberry Check that it infringed on their copyright.[56][57]
  14. ^ For example, the Clan Cameron Association website states that the Cameron of Lochiel tartan "is the personal tartan of the Chief and his immediate family; as a rule it should not be worn by clansfolk".[61]
  15. ^ The only non-royal permitted by the Royal Family to wear the Balmoral tartan is the Queen's personal piper.[63] The official website of the British Monarchy claims the tartan is not available for purchase.[64]

References

  1. ^ M.A. Newsome, 'The Scottish Tartans Museum': http://www.scottishtartans.org/tartan.html
  2. ^ a b c d MacDonald (1995), p. 48.
  3. ^ a b http://www.tartangenerator.com/tartan/pages/construction.html
  4. ^ a b Banks; de la Chapelle (2007), p. 57.
  5. ^ a b c d e "Submission From James D Scarlett" (PDF). The Scottish Parliament (scottish.parliament.uk). http://www.scottish.parliament.uk/business/committees/enterprise/inquiries/tartan/tartan-ScarlettJames.pdf. Retrieved on 2008-10-12.
  6. ^ a b c "Frequently Asked Questions". Scottish Tartans Museum (scottishtartans.org). http://www.scottishtartans.org/faq.html. Retrieved on 2008-10-16.
  7. ^ MacBain (1911), p. 277.; see also: Merriam-Webster (2003), p. 947.
  8. ^ Banks; de la Chapelle (2007), p. 61.
  9. ^ a b c "What's a Threadcount". Scottish Tartans Authority (tartansauthority.com). http://www.tartansauthority.com/Web/Site/Tartan/Designing/WhatsAThreadcount.asp. Retrieved on 2008-10-16.
  10. ^ MacDonald, Peter Eslea. "The Use of Colour in Tartan". Scottish Tartans Authority (tartansauthority.com). http://www.tartansauthority.com/Web/Site/Tartan/Dyeing/UseOfColour.asp. Retrieved on 2008-10-22.
  11. ^ a b Banks; de la Chapelle (2007), p. 63.
  12. ^ Fortson (2004), p. 352.
  13. ^ Coonan, Clifford (2006-08-28). "A meeting of civilisations: The mystery of China's celtic mummies". The Independent (independent.co.uk). http://www.independent.co.uk/news/world/asia/a-meeting-of-civilisations-the-mystery-of-chinas-celtic-mummies-413638.html. Retrieved on 2008-10-11.
  14. ^ "Tartan - Shepherd/Falkirk". Scottish Tartans World Register (scottish-tartans-world-register.com). http://www.scottish-tartans-world-register.com/tartan.aspx?record=1253. Retrieved on 2008-10-08.
  15. ^ "Search Results (falkirk tartan)". National Museums of Scotland (nms.ac.uk). http://nms.scran.ac.uk/database/results.php?PHPSESSID=hs2cdr8p86v5er17iuunr0hj36&PHPSESSID=hs2cdr8p86v5er17iuunr0hj36&QUICKSEARCH=1&search_term=falkirk+tartan. Retrieved on 2008-10-08.
  16. ^ Banks; de la Chapelle (2007), pp. 66-67.
  17. ^ Banks; de la Chapelle (2007), pp. 65-66. Banks and de la Chapelle cite this quotation from Scarlett, James D. Tartan, The Highland Textile, p. 12.
  18. ^ Jacobson et al. (2000), p. 228.
  19. ^ "An incident during the visit of George IV to Edinburgh, 1822". National Galleries of Scotland (nationalgalleries.org). http://www.nationalgalleries.org/index.php/collection/online_az/4:322/results/0/8208/. Retrieved on 2008-10-23.
  20. ^ Moncreiffe of that Ilk (1967), p. 24.
  21. ^ a b c d Magnusson (2003), pp. 653-654.
  22. ^ Duncan, Ian (2007). Scott's Shadow: The Novel in Romantic Edinburgh. Princeton University Press. pp. 7–8. ISBN 0691043833.
  23. ^ a b Banks; de la Chapelle (2007), pp. 106-108.
  24. ^ a b MacDonald, Peter. "A Short History of Tartan". Peter MacDonald Tartan Design & Consultancy (scottishtartans.co.uk). http://www.scottishtartans.co.uk/history.htm. Retrieved on 2008-10-07.
  25. ^ Wilton, Brian. "History of Tartan". Scottish Tartans Authority (tartansauthority.com). http://www.tartansauthority.com/Web/Site/Tartan/History/HistoryofTartan.asp. Retrieved on 2008-10-06.
  26. ^ Banks; de la Chapelle (2007), pp. 108-109.
  27. ^ Victoria (1885), p. 173.
  28. ^ Banks; de la Chapelle (2007), p. 84.
  29. ^ Ray (1752), p. 344.
  30. ^ McGann, Kass (2003). "The Evolution of the Kilt -- The Question of Clan Tartans". ReconstructingHistory (reconstructinghistory.com). https://www.reconstructinghistory.com//index.php?s=&c=8&d=117&e=&f=&g=&a=133&w=2. Retrieved on 2008-10-06.
  31. ^ a b c Campbell of Airds (2000), pp. 259-261.
  32. ^ "Which are the authentic Campbell tartans?". The Clan Campbell Society (North America) (ccsna.org). http://www.ccsna.org/jsep50a.htm. Retrieved on 2008-10-09.
  33. ^ Way of Plean; Squire (2000), p. 214.
  34. ^ http://www.regiments.org/tradition/tartans/govermt.htm Retrieved on August 11, 2007
  35. ^ Schwartzapfel, Beth. "Sound the Bagpipes: Scots Design Jewish Tartan". Forward, July 17, 2008.
  36. ^ MacBain (1911), p. 151.
  37. ^ "Hunting Tartans". Tartans of Scotland (tartans.scotland.net). http://www.tartans.scotland.net/tartan_types/hunting.cfm.htm. Retrieved on 2008-10-20.
  38. ^ Banks; de la Chapelle (2007), p. 68. Banks and de la Chapelle cite this quotation from Grant, I. F.; Cheape, Hugh Periods in Highland History. New York: Barnes & Noble. p. 8.
  39. ^ "Mourning Tartans". Tartans of Scotland (tartans.scotland.net). http://www.tartans.scotland.net/tartan_types/mourning.cfm.htm. Retrieved on 2008-10-20.
  40. ^ Banks; de la Chapelle (2007), pp. 21-22.
  41. ^ "19th-century Scottish kitch is today's collectible: Collecting tartanware". Coastal Antiques & Art (coastalantiques.com). http://www.coastalantiques.com/archives/december2003/ANTtartan.html. Retrieved on 2008-10-25.
  42. ^ Banks; de la Chapelle (2007), pp. 26-27.
  43. ^ Ash; Wright (1988), p. 63.
  44. ^ "Holyrood supports tartan register". BBC News (news.bbc.co.uk). 2008-09-19. http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/uk_news/scotland/7461981.stm. Retrieved on 2008-09-24.
  45. ^ "Consultation on the Creation of A Register of Tartan" (PDF). The Scottish Parliament (www.scottish.parliament.uk). http://www.scottish.parliament.uk/business/bills/pdfs/mb-consultations/Tartan-consultation-as-issued.pdf. Retrieved on 2008-09-09.
  46. ^ "Scottish Tartans Society". Scottish Tartans World Register (scottish-tartans-world-register.com). http://www.scottish-tartans-world-register.com/scottish_tartans_Society.aspx. Retrieved on 2008-09-07.
  47. ^ a b Newsome, Matthew A. C.. "What’s the “official” word about tartans?". The Scottish Tartans Museum (albanach.org). http://www.albanach.org/official.htm. Retrieved on 2008-09-09.
  48. ^ "Scottish Register of Tartans Bill" (PDF). The Scottish Parliament (scottish.parliament.uk). http://www.scottish.parliament.uk/s3/bills/08-TartanBill/b8s3-introd-pm.pdf. Retrieved on 2008-09-08.
  49. ^ "About us". Scottish Tartans Authority (tartansauthority.com). http://www.tartansauthority.com/Web/Site/ScottishTartansAuthority/introduction.asp. Retrieved on 2008-09-12.
  50. ^ "About the Scottish Tartan World Register". Scottish Tartans World Register (scottish-tartans-world-register.com). http://www.scottish-tartans-world-register.com/about.aspx. Retrieved on 2008-09-07.
  51. ^ "About Us". The Scottish Register of Tartans (www.tartanregister.gov.uk). http://www.tartanregister.gov.uk/aboutUs.aspx. Retrieved on 8 February 2009.
  52. ^ "Home". The Scottish Register of Tartans (www.tartanregister.gov.uk). http://www.tartanregister.gov.uk/index.aspx. Retrieved on 8 February 2009.
  53. ^ "Guidance". The Scottish Register of Tartans (www.tartanregister.gov.uk). http://www.tartanregister.gov.uk/guidance.aspx. Retrieved on 8 February 2009.
  54. ^ "Universal Tartans". Tartans of Scotland (tartans.scotland.net). http://www.tartans.scotland.net/tartan_types/universal.cfm.htm. Retrieved on 2008-10-18.
  55. ^ "Royal Tartans". Tartans of Scotland (tartans.scotland.net). http://www.tartans.scotland.net/tartan_types/royal.cfm.htm. Retrieved on 2008-10-18.
  56. ^ a b McDougall, Liam (2003-05-13). "Fashion giant Burberry tries to kill off traditional tartan rival". (findarticles.com). http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_qn4156/is_20030518/ai_n12582587. This article was originally published in the Sunday Herald.
  57. ^ "Tartan - Thompson/Thomson/MacTavish camel". Scottish Tartans World Register (scottish-tartans-world-register.com). http://www.scottish-tartans-world-register.com/tartan.aspx?record=2420. Retrieved on 2008-10-18.
  58. ^ The Scottish Clans and Their Tartans (2005), p. 14.
  59. ^ The Court of the Lord Lyon. "Information Leaflet No.2 - Scottish Crest Badges". The Society of Scottish Armigers (scotarmigers.net). http://www.scotarmigers.net/leaflet2.htm. Retrieved on 2008-07-23.
  60. ^ "Tartans". The Court of the Lord Lyon (lyon-court.com). http://www.lyon-court.com/lordlyon/243.html. Retrieved on 2008-10-16.
  61. ^ "The "Basics" of Clan Cameron". Clan Cameron Online (clan-cameron.org). http://www.clan-cameron.org/basics.html. Retrieved on 2008-10-18.
  62. ^ "Tartan - FAQ". Scottish Tartans Authority (tartansauthority.com). http://www.tartansauthority.com/Web/Site/FAQs/tartanfaqs.asp. Retrieved on 2008-10-18.
  63. ^ Hutcheson, Colin W. "Royal Tartans". Scottish Tartans Authority (tartansauthority.com). http://www.tartansauthority.com/Web/Site/Tartan/History/RoyalTartans.asp. Retrieved on 2008-10-18.
  64. ^ "Piping in the Balmoral Tartan". The official website of the British Monarchy (royal.gov.uk). http://www.royal.gov.uk/output/Page3305.asp. Retrieved on 2008-10-20.

Bibliography

  • Tartans, ed. Blair Urquhart, The Apple Press, London, 1994, ISBN 1-85076-499-9
  • Clans and Tartans—Collins Pocket Reference, George Way of Plean and Romilly Squire, Harper Collins, Glasgow 1995, ISBN 0-00-470810-5
  • "The Invention of Tradition: The Highland Tradition of Scotland", Hugh Trevor-Roper, in The Invention of Tradition, ed. Eric Hobsbawm and Terence Ranger, 1983, ISBN 0-521-24645-8.
  • History of highland dress: A definitive study of the history of Scottish costume and tartan, both civil and military, including weapons, John Telfer Dunbar, ISBN 0-7134-1894-X.

External links

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